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Small numbers of diamonds begin appearing in European regalia and jewelry in the 13th century, set as accent points among pearls in splendid wrought gold. By the 16th century the diamonds become larger and more prominent, in response to the development of diamond faceting, which enhances their brilliance and fire. Diamonds come to dominate small jewels during the 17th century and large ones by the 18th century. They ultimately supplant the gold settings in visual impact, so gold is replaced with the more sympathetically colored metal, silver, and, later, platinum.
An act of Saint Louis (Louis IX of France, 1214-70) that established a sumptuary law reserving diamonds for the king bespeaks the rarity of diamonds and the value
conferred on them at that time. Within 100 years diamonds appeared in royal jewelry
of both men and women, then among the greater European aristocracy, with
the wealthy merchant class showing the occasional diamond by the 17th century.
Enameled gold pendant with a central diamond rosette formed by 12 diamonds, surrounded by alternating rubies and emeralds; first third of the 16th century, 5.2 cm across. click to zoom in
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The earliest European ornamental and regal applications feature diamond points that resemble the Roman style of natural points in rings. Unlike the Roman examples, the European points may have been polished, if only to remove surface irregularities and coatings of any foreign mineral. The taboo on modifying a diamond crystal into a gem, which originated in India, ends around this time in both Europe and India. There is no recorded explanation, but the implications of the rise of diamond's popularity in ornamentation are nothing short of revolutionary -- as more diamonds reach Europe, demand for the brilliant gem increases.
The earliest diamond-cutting industry is believed to have been in Venice, a trade capital, starting sometime after 1330. Diamond cutting may have arrived in Paris by the late 14th century; for Bruges -- on the diamond trade route -- there is documentation for the technique in 1465.
Pendant photo Courtesy Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden, Grunes Gewolbe.
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